For 40 years, Zvārde Parish was used by the Soviet military for bombing target practice. Today, it is a stunning wilderness, with moving monuments to this sad history.
Latvia's remote north-west coast is a natural haven of forests and pristine beaches. It's also the traditional home of the Livs, one of the world's tinniest nations. Throw in some bizarre Soviet military relics and you have a road trip like no other in Europe.